We’re going to explain you how to change the Heating Element assembly in your Dryer that’s a really easy job, all We’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver and 5/16ths nut driver and a ¼ inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Let me explain you how we do it.
Now before we begin this repair the first thing we’ll need to do is to disconnect power to the dryer, so simply pull the plug from the receptacle or if it’s a hardwired dryer locate the fuse panel or breaker panel and disconnect the power there. Next We’re going to remove the door, there are two Phillips screws through the center of the hinge, just remove those two screws to the center of the hinge, one for the top, one for the bottom, and you’ll note that they’re an oval head countersunk screw and we can then just pivot that door around and lift up on it.
And the hinges will pop out in the open. You can see that it’s an arrowhead type of hinge that fits into these two little slots. Then we can remove the door and set that aside.
Now next We’re going to remove two more Phillips screws on the opposite side. There will be little plastic cover behind those screws, remove that with them, and next we’ll grasp the top of that front panel and just give an outward twist on it pulling from the inside edges out to release it and tilt it down and lift it away from the base frame.
Now with the front panel removed we now have access to that heater, so first off We’re going to remove the two wires to the thermal fuse on the left side of that Heater assembly and a single wire on the right-hand side that connects to the high limit thermostat. So using our needle nose pliers just pull those wires off. I will also give you a different angle with the camera to explain you how those wires actually connect on there.
So we’ll need to remove the wires for the thermal fuse, on the left side here, there’s also one wire at the bottom of the element. Remove that and there’s one on the right-hand side pulling to the thermostat. Then there’s a ¼ inch hex edge screw into the base, and then another one into the rear inlet assembly.
And just pull that assembly out of the opening, and next we are going to transfer that thermal fuse end bracket on to the new element as well as the thermostat and the jumper wire. So remove that thermal fuse just take this single screw out of the bracket. Tilt the bracket up slide it out.
Also take the high limit thermostat and the jumper wire and take note of the terminals on that jumper wire make sure they’re in good shape. Remove the two ¼ inch hex head screws and the thermostat, and lastly we will remove the front shield on that housing, it’s a single ¼ inch screw on the bottom and that will hinge out and release the tab at the top.
Take our new element, we’ll start by inserting that tab and I’ll rotate it around and make sure the bottom tab goes inside the housing. Secure it with a screw; we’ll start with one of these screws for that high limit thermostat. I’ll tuck one leg of the thermostat in there, then insert the second screw.
And then tighten both of them.
And then reattach the jumper wire to the element terminal. Then next We’re going to install the bracket with the thermal fuse, put the two tabs into the slotted openings and then secure it with the ¼ inch hex head screw. And now we can put it back into the housing.
So begin by sliding the housing into the dryer and we reattach that wire to the left-hand side of the element housing. You can also put the two wires on to the thermal fuse.
And We’re now going to line that up with the opening at the back and rotate it around so that tab will actually lineup with the screw hole. Now once we have that lined up, we’ll install that ¼ inch screw that secures it to that inlet duct assembly. And tighten that screw securely and we can position the front, so that that shield lines up with the screw hole in the base.
Next we’ll reinstall the screw at the front of that housing and if you haven’t already done so, we’ll attach the remaining wire to the high limit thermostat. We’re now ready to put the front panel back on. So next we’ll reinstall that front panel, there are two rectangular openings on the bottom that will fit over those two hooks, make sure they’re engaged.
Then tilt the panel forward, and then We’re going to make sure that these little spring clips on either side fit into the little slot on either side and then we’ll rotate into position. We can then put the two spacers and screws on the non-hinge side. Make sure you use the larger flat-head screw for these and don’t over tighten these or you’ll crack that plastic spacer.
Just make sure it’s snug enough that the front panel can’t rattle.
And next we’ll put the door on. Now we need to lineup those arrowheads on the hinges with the slots through that bulkhead. We’ll start with the bottom one. Then line up the top one.
Once we’ve got them fully inserted you should be able to push down slightly on that door and that will lineup the screw holes and these are the oval head screws that fit into the hinge.
Tighten these securely. We’re now ready to reconnect the power and our repair is complete. I told it was an easy job. Thanks for reading and good luck with your repair.