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Dryer Repair – Replacing the Idler Arm and Shaft (Whirlpool Part # 6-3705180)

Hi it’s Steve from ifixappliance.ca. We’re going to explain you how to change the Idler Arm and Shaft on your dryer, it’s a really easy job. All you are going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, 5/16ths nut driver and maybe a small flat blade.

Let me explain you how we do it.

Now before we begin this repair because we will be working near some electrical circuits, we will have to disconnect the power to the dryer. If your dryer has a cord on it just simply unplug it from the receptacle, if it’s a hard-wired dryer you will need to locate the fuse panel or breaker panel and disconnect the power there. Next we will remove the door and the front panel, there are four Phillips head screws that secure the front panel and two of them also hold the door hinges in place.

Now the latch side will have a little plastic bumper that comes off with the screw, the hinge screws are countersunk there, different from the hinge on the latch side, so make sure we don’t mix those up. We can now take the door and just lift up slightly on the door and disengage the arrow head hinges from the slotted openings in the bulkhead.

We will set that aside and we will just disengage the tops of that front panel, there is a little slotted opening in the front panel that engages on this hook at the top, tilt it down and lift it off of the two hooks in the bottom and we can set that aside. Next We’re going to remove the six screws that hold the front bulkhead to the dryer, we will start with two at the top that also secure this hook in place, just lift out on that hook, tilt it to the outside and it will drop down out of the main top.

Now there are two screws on the left hand side at the bottom and the central bottom on that we need to remove. Now on the opposite side again, we are going to remove one screw that secures that hook, and left out on it, tilt it to the outside and drop it out of the main top, and we have one screw on the bottom in the right side, and there are two at the top and it will be the top one that we need to remove.

That will allow us to lift up just slightly on the top, and we can pull the whole bulkhead right into the front of the dryer, you can rotate that round enough, we can disconnect wires to the door switch, and as well to the light bulb, if your model has a light bulb on it, and we can set the bulkhead aside, so you can reach in on both sides of the motor, locate the Idler, push it to the left, and disengage the belt from it. Now we can remove the drum, just lift up slightly on the top and pull the drum out and set that aside.

This one is the belt, we now have access to the Idler assembly, we simply need to disengage the spring from the Idler and remove one 5/16 inch screw that pivots on at the bottom. Now first thing we need to do is disengage the spring from the Idler Arm, disengage the hook on that hole in the arm, next we will remove 5/16ths Hex head screw that secures that Idler Arm to the motor bracket. Now that screw does have a shoulder washer on it that fits into the opening arm, the Idler Arm.

fit into slots

So we need to make sure that we keep that in the right direction, next we will remove the e-ring from the shaft, just take a flat blade screwdriver, pop that off. Next we will remove the fiber washer, the roller and one more fiber washer on the bottom side, and next We’re going to pop out this little plastic isolator that the spring hooks into, and you can just pump that out with a flat blade screw driver, push it from the backside and then pry it open.

if it

We can discard the old bracket, now the first thing to do will be to pop that new insert into the new bracket, and the next will put one of the fiber washers, roll the shaft and then the roller, and then another fiber washer, next we will slide the e-ring in one of the groove on that shaft, we will push it on fully with a flat blade. Next we will reinstall that 5/16-inch screw, and make sure the shoulder washer fits into the bracket, so that it turns easily, and the arm should pivot freely.

Next with the spring popped out of the base, pick the hook shaped and insert that in through the hole in the base, and we will engage the spring through that plastic isolator, and now we are ready to reinstall the drum and the belt. I find it easier to drape the belt around the drum first, and then slide it into the opening, we will have to lift up to the top enough to clear the width of the drum, and then we will set the back of it on the two rear drum rollers.

Then we will position the belt roughly about a couple of inches in front of that deep rib, and then we will reach it on both sides and wrap it around the Idler and the outer pulley. Now at this point take the drum, just rotate it clockwise, make sure that the blower wheel is turning and that the belt aligns itself up properly on the drum, through the rib side of the belt against the drum, and the flat side up and now we are ready to reinstall the bulkhead.

Now before we begin this

So first we will rope the wires to the light bulb socket, and through that website, we connect those and as well we will need to reconnect the wires to the door switch, now to reinstall the front bulkhead, we will tilt it on the bottom and We’re going to lift up slightly on the top, and then we will also need to lift up slightly on the drum, tuck the front glides under the front of the drum, and then line up the screw holes with the openings in the cabinet. We can start by putting a couple of those screws in at the beginning that hold it in place, now that we have the bulkhead secured with the cabinet, we will make sure that our top fits down and hangs out over the front of that bulkhead, then we can install the hooks, tucking it into the little slot at the top, rotate them around and reinstall the 5/16 inch screw, and do the same for the opposite side, and now we are ready to reinstall the front panel.

Fit the hooks on the bottom into the slotted openings, and then engage little hooks from the side with the slotted opening on the top of the front panel. At this point you can put the latch side screws and bumpers in place, remember to keep the flat side of the bumper against the front of the dryer, and don’t over-tighten the screws because they are plastic bumpers, you don’t want to crack them, drop the lint filter back into place, and before we put the door arm we want to run our hand around the front felt area on that bulkhead to make sure that we didn’t fold the felt over and if we did just take a small flat blade screw driver, tuck it in there and peel it back into position.

Next we will install the door, again with a little arrowhead hinges here that will fit into slots on either side, make sure that they are pushed in fully and you can drop it down so that the hole in the hinge lines up with the holes in the front panel. We will reinstall those two screws making sure that they don’t go cross threaded, and these two we can snug up nice and tight.

Now we will check alignment of the door and the latch, we are ready to reconnect the power and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job, thanks for reading and good luck with your repair.