Refrigerator Repair – Replacing the Filter Inlet Water Tube (Whirlpool Part # 8201597)

Hi, it's Steve from we are going to explain you how to change the water filter inlet tube on your refrigerator and it's a really easy job. All we are going to need is a 5/16-inch and 1/4-inch nut driver, a putty knife, 1/2-inch wrench and a 1/4-inch socket and a small ratchet. Let me explain you how we do it.

Now to do this repair we will need access to the back of the refrigerator and the front of the refrigerator, so we are going pull it away from the wall and also have to disconnect the inlet water supply to the back of the refrigerator before we can begin our repair. Now that we have access to the back of the refrigerator we have removed the inlet water supply with that half-inch coupling nut.

cabinet and next

We are next going to take rear panel off and I suggest that you take the whole back panel off rather than just one end of it and fold it away, we don't want to damage that, it is an important part of how the refrigerator works, so we remove the 1/4-inch hex head screws and just pull that panel away at the bottom and then tuck it from the little groove across the top. We will just set that aside.

The inlet water valve is over in the right hand corner here and there will be two different styles of this, some types have an external connection for your inlet water supply and others have the tubing that runs directly from the water filter. Now if you have the style that has the external connection, we are going to actually remove that from the valve because we will no longer need it.

So we will start by pulling the two screws that secure the water valve bracket to the side of the refrigerator cabinet. These are machine type screws, they are little bit different than the ones that hold the back panel on, so make sure we keep that separate. Then we can pull that valve out far enough, we can access the water line at the very back of it and we will have a pushing type of connector, so we are simply pushing on that cart, hold it in and then pull the tubing out at the back.

There maybe some water that comes out of that tubing so have something there to collect that and as I say if you have the type of valve that has a separate input to it, we will need to separate that from the valve at this point. Also included in this kit is a sleeve that will fit over the harness connector to the condenser fan motor and depending on the style of motor that you have you may or may not need to user that sleeve.

So identify the type of motor that you have and compare it with the instructions and if need be just pull that connector off, slide the sleeve over it and then reconnect it. Our last step at the back of the refrigerator would be to disconnect the clamp that holds that inlet water tube if your model is equipped with that style. So simply take that 1/4-inch hex head screw out, separate the clamp and just set that aside, and that will allow us to pull the tubing out through from the front.

Next we are going to go to the front of the refrigerator and access it through the kick plate. Next we are going to go to the front of the refrigerator and access the opposite end of the water inlet we are replacing. So our next step would be to remove the kick plate at the bottom.

So start by opening all the doors and with a putty knife, just go down in behind that enough to pop your fingers in behind that. Do the same on the opposite side and the kick plate has two arrowhead fasteners, one on either end that clip into a spring clip mounted to the side of the frame. Our next step will be to remove the floater housing, so we can access where the water line connects to the back of it.

So next we are going to remove a 1/4-inch hex head screw that is into the side frame of the cabinet that holds that support wire that is connected to the filter housing, we will need to remove that and you probably need to use your 1/4-inch socket and ratchet to get that screw open. Next we will remove two 5/16 hex head screws that are in the bottom of that filter housing, that secures to the cross rail on the frame.

Now we can pull that filter housing forward enough so we can access the water line that's is connected to the side of it, one closest to the front is the inlet supply line that we are going to replace and again it has a collar, simply depress that and pull the tubing out, and again we will probably get some water that will leak out here, and we are ready to install our new tubing and you will note that it is considerably longer but we don't want to cut this tubing. We will place the excess at the back of the refrigerator, in case there are fixed ends on both ends, that we don't want to alter.

Just unravel enough of it that we can push it through the back, so take the end of the metal nut on it, and a protective cap to straighten enough of that and we can push it straight through at the back. Now we will take the opposite end of the 1/4-inch tubing to a 5/16 tubing in and we will insert that into the filter housing, we are going to push that until the bottom is out and pull back sharply on it and it should stay connected.

Then, we will put the whole assembly back into position, just guide that tubing in, making sure that we don't kink it anywhere. We will reinstall the two 5/16 screws on the front. We will not tighten those yet, we will just put them in enough to hold the housing.

in the opening, next we

We will take that support wire and our 1/4-inch screw, and we will attach that to the side.

Now with that in place we will tighten the two screws, try to center them in the opening, next we will reinstall the kick plate and we will need to make sure that we have that housing centered with the hole in the kick plate and also want to make sure that the water line that goes up to the door is not binding up anywhere, typically you can hook it underneath that mounting screw for the front wheel. Line up the arrowhead fasteners and snap it into place, now we can go back to the refrigerator again.

Next step we need to pull that inlet water line and connect it to the back of the refrigerator, just hold it in place and then we will be able to reconnect to our supply from the home using the same connector. Our next step will be to connect the inlet water tubing to the back to the refrigerator and if your had that type of set up in the beginning you will reuse the clamp, if yours had the breakaway fitting on the valve, we will use the supply clamp, slip that over the tubing and just pitch it together and then using one of the 1/4-inch self tapping screws we will mount to the back and we will leave enough slack in there so that we have no kinks anywhere between the back of the cabinet and next to the water filter, just check inside and make sure that that there is lot of tubing there and tighten that up.

I will now be able to connect this new tubing to your existing water supply using the, not that it is supplied on the tubing. We need to reconnect the tubing from the outlet of the filter, so reach until we can locate that, make sure we have the end of it clean, then we are going to insert that into the back of the valve, same type of occult type of fitting where we just simply push it firmly all the way in and then pull back out to make sure it's locked in place, then we can reattach the valve to the side of the cabinet, we will use the machine type screws with the finer thread to attach that water valve bracket, now before we put the back panel on, I want to make sure that none of the tubing is touching any of the copper pipes, they overheat and cause a melting situation, make sure the wire harnesses are still connected properly, then we will take that cardboard back panel and we will just tuck the top of it into the website in the back cabinet and we will replace the screws.

Now if your model has the break away stall valve on it, you can use the adhesive strip that was packed with this kit and cover over the opening where that would have been cut away for that connection or use the screw with the large washer on it in the middle. So now we are ready to push the refrigerator back into the opening, we will reconnect our water supply and turn the supply on and check for any leaks, reconnect the power.

valve bracket, now

So now that we have the refrigerator back in its position our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job, thanks for reading and good luck with your repair.