We’re going to explain you how to change a bearing on your dryer. Really easy job; all We’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver, a putty knife, and a little bit of high-temperature lubricant. Let me explain you how we do it.
Now the first step in this repair will be to disconnect the power to the dryer: simply pull the plug if it has one on it, if it’s a direct-wired dryer than you’ll need to locate the fuses or circuit breakers and turn those off. Next we’ll remove the main top, there’s a couple of spring-clips in about two inches on either side so with a putty knife we’ll locate those, depress them, lift up on the lid.
Just open the lid up, and then we’ll remove this ground strap at the back, and then lift the lid right off. Next we’ll disconnect the two wire harnesses along the side here; tuck that down out of the way. There are two Phillips screws that are located about four inches down on either side that hold the front panel to the cabinet.
So we’ll remove those.
Now we can tilt the front panel forward, lower it down enough that you can disengage the hooks on the bottom of the front panel and then we’ll set this whole assembly aside. Next We’re going to remove this little guard on the front; a single Phillips screw. That will give us a little more room to remove the drum.
Now there’s an idler assembly that’s located right in behind the blower, it has some spring tension on it, so We’re going to release the tension on that spring then roll the belt of the motor pulley. So reach in on one side, locate that. Next, using the belt, we’ll lift up on the back of the drum to disengage the baring, then We’re going to tilt it enough to get it through the opening, and then we’ll set the drum assembly aside.
Now with the drum down on a flat surface here we’ve exposed the rear bearing. It’s held in place with these three screws that have a Phillips head on them or if you find them really tight you can always use a #2 square-head to remove those three screws. There will also be some grease on that bearing so you’ll want to protect the floor.
Now the new bearing has holes punched for the screws but they’re not tapped yet so it’s probably best to take one of the existing screws and start a thread on them before we install it. And we’ll do that for each of the three holes. . This is very hard to do if you tried to do this from inside the drum so it’s best to start them ahead of time. Now We’re ready to put it in place.
Now the first thing we’ll do is line up one of the holes to get one of the screws started. Now we want to make sure that all of those screws are very tight, we don’t want that bearing coming loose. Now the next thing we’ll have to do is sit that back in the bearing housing and I recommend putting some high-temperature grease in the housing first rather than have it on the ball itself otherwise you run into more chance of getting it all over yourself.
Now before we do that the last thing is to clean out all of this area in behind with a vacuum cleaner, knock any of that loose: lint that’s in there, and vacuum it all out. Next we’ll put a little bit of high-temp grease in the rear-bearing housing, and then We’re ready to reinstall the drum. Now We’re ready to reinstall the drum; we’ll fit it through the opening, then lift that baring up into the baring holder, push it down into place.
Line the belt up roughly where it belongs, you’ll see some marks on the drum, and then we need to wrap the belt around the idler pulley and the motor. There is a spring that puts tension on that idler pulley that’s connected to the motor bracket; we’ll give you a close-up shot of that so you can see where it connects in case you dislodge it. Now the orientation of the belt will come down the side of the drum, wraps around the motor pulley, and then up over top of the idler pulley.
And when we rotate the drum you should see the blower fan moving. Now We’re ready to put the front panel back on. Make sure that we engage the slots on the bottom of the front panel with the two little tabs on the front cabinet.
And we’ll have to lift up on the drum a little bit to slide that front panel in; make sure that the front glides go into the drum opening. Next we’ll reinstall those two Phillips screws, one on either side; make sure they’re tight. Next we’ll reinstall the guard for the drum.
Next we’ll reconnect the wire harnesses. And now We’re ready to put the main top on. Simply locate the slots in the back of the main top, slide them over the hinges, and remember to reconnect the ground strap, just pinch it closed to make sure it has a nice, tight fit.
Then simply snap the main top back in place. Reconnect the power and our repair is complete.
Told you it was an easy job. Thanks for reading, and good luck with your repair.